Biohotel Grafenast is a sustainability pioneer perched at 1,330 m on the Pillberg above the Inn Valley in Tyrol – a living testament to how a hotel can honor its past while leading the way to a greener future. Run by the Unterlechner family since 1907, Grafenast began as a simple mountain inn and became Tirol’s first organic hotel and first carbon-neutral hotel through the family’s visionary commitment to the environment. Arriving at Grafenast, you feel like you’ve discovered a secret artistic enclave in the mountains. The hotel consists of several charming wooden buildings – some over a century old – connected by pathways adorned with sculptures and quirky art installations. In fact, Grafenast doubles as an art haven: every corner reveals surprises, from whimsical sculptures in the garden to murals painted by artist friends. The family believes art and nature inspire well-being, so they’ve blended the two beautifully. Rooms are individually styled – no cookie-cutter design here. Many feature hand-painted furniture, perhaps a colorful mosaic in the bathroom or a unique art piece on the wall. All rooms, whether rustic or newly renovated, follow strict eco-building biology standards: hardwood floors (no carpets with chemicals), solid wood beds with unsprung natural latex mattresses, organic cotton linens, and zero electromagnetic disturbances (they cut power at night, and there are no TVs – an intentional choice for better sleep). Instead of screens, balconies or terraces in many rooms frame awe-inspiring views of the Inn Valley far below or forests all around – views that have a calming, almost meditative effect. Sustainability is woven into Grafenast’s DNA. Decades ago, the Unterlechners installed solar thermal panels and one of the region’s first photovoltaic systems to harness the strong Alpine sun. A wood-chip biomass heating system warms the property. All electricity is green-certified. The hotel’s water comes from its own mountain spring, naturally – and the tap water is so pure and delicious that it’s served with pride. Grafenast was a founding member of the “Tiroler Biowirt” (Tyrolean organic inn) group in the 1990s and has been 100% organic for food and beverages for ages. They even brew their own organic beer and ferment kombucha in-house. In recognition of their holistic approach, Grafenast consistently earns top sustainability accolades; notably, they practice the Common Good Economy principles and publish a Common Good Balance Sheet to measure success not just financially but in ecological and social impact. True to these values, the hotel hires inclusively (providing jobs for people with disabilities), supports local artisans, and champions causes like anti-over-tourism, showing that tourism can be thoughtful and respectful. Cuisine at Grafenast is an absolute treat – healthy, creative, and deeply rooted in Tyrolean tradition with a modern twist. Famously, they embraced vegetarian cooking very early: in the early 1980s, they shocked their meat-and-potatoes peers by catering a full vegetarian menu for a diplomat’s two-week stay. Today, while they do serve meat and fish options (all organic, with fish wild-caught or from organic aquaculture), their kitchen truly shines with plant-forward dishes. The restaurant has Slow Food certification and a reputation that draws foodies up the mountain. At breakfast, alongside homemade mueslis, organic farm yogurt and eggs, and a variety of fresh breads, you’ll find housemade spreads (eggplant, beet, herb – changing daily) and perhaps an herbal tea bar with clippings from their garden. The dinner menu changes daily, always offering a vegetarian/vegan choice that often steals the show – like creamy wild garlic risotto or nut roast with chanterelles, showcasing the incredible flavors of local produce. They source much from their own permaculture garden (salads, herbs, berries) and nearby organic farms. A specialty is their “Grafenast Garden Salad”, an edible masterpiece of over 40 different leaves, blossoms, and herbs, many plucked mere minutes before appearing on your plate. When meat is on the menu, it’s used thoughtfully – e.g., a small accent of organic speck in a hearty dumpling soup. A delight is the weekly Tyrolean Abend (Tyrolean evening) where traditional dishes like Kässpätzle (cheese spaetzle) or Schlipfkrapfen (local ravioli) are served, but all made organic and often vegetarian by tradition anyway. Dessert might be an elderflower panna cotta or spelt apple strudel with a dollop of raw milk cream – heaven. To drink, try their organic wine selection or homemade elderflower syrup in sparkling water from their spring. Wellness and activities at Grafenast are refreshingly unconventional and attuned to nature. There is a panoramic wooden sauna hut hidden just at the forest’s edge, where you can sweat while gazing at pine trees and then step outside to cool off in the mountain air (or roll in the snow in winter!). A few steps down, a hollow in the woods houses a unique outdoor wood-fired hot tub which they’ll heat on request – soaking in it at night under the stars, with the twinkling lights of villages far below, is magical. There’s also a small indoor infrared sauna and a relaxation room with loungers, but the focus is really on the open-air spa experience. Massage and yoga sessions are offered too; in summer, morning yoga often takes place on the lawn by a sculpture or on the terrace, breathing in fresh alpine oxygen. The hotel has a beautiful little meditation room as well, simply designed with tatami mats and a view of the valley – guests use it freely for yoga, prayer, or quiet thought. Grafenast’s location right on the slopes of the Kellerjoch makes it a paradise for outdoor enthusiasts who prefer tranquility over busy resort vibe. In winter, you can ski directly from the hotel (when snow is ample) to a small family ski area, and cross-country ski trails and sled runs are nearby. They even lend out toboggans for free – the 4 km natural sled run through the forest is a must-try laugh-filled adventure. Snowshoe hikes are another favorite; the hotel provides snowshoes and will gladly point you to trails where you might spot a hare or deer. In summer, dozens of hiking trails start at the door, from gentle walks through wildflower meadows to more challenging treks up to Kellerjoch summit with 360° views. They’ll pack you a lunch of local cheese, nuts and fruit if you like. Bicycles and e-bikes are available too, and mountain bikers enjoy the quiet forest routes. Culture isn’t forgotten either – Grafenast hosts occasional concerts and workshops, aligning with their artistic spirit. They’ve had everything from classical quartet performances in the meadow, to sculpture workshops where guests can try wood-carving, to herbal foraging walks guided by a local expert (ending in making your own herbal salt or balm). There’s also a small on-site art gallery and gift shop selling local artisan crafts, organic cosmetics, and some of their house-made specialties like elderflower syrup and herbal teas. Perhaps most endearing is the family atmosphere. Peter and Waltraud Unterlechner, the current hosts, are often around – Peter might be tending the fireplace or giving a tour of their off-grid energy systems to curious guests, while Waltraud pours you a coffee and chats about the best trail to see eagles. Their adult children and even grandchildren are involved too. Through the ups and downs of over a century (they recently celebrated the hotel’s 111th anniversary with great fanfare), the Unterlechners have held fast to Toni (the great-grandfather)’s vision of a place where people can “live in close touch with nature”. This legacy is palpable. Many guests are loyal returnees, and new ones are quickly swept up into the Grafenast feeling – one of warm simplicity, creative expression, and living gently with the earth. As night falls, the combination of pure mountain silence, lack of light pollution, and a content belly full of organic goodness tends to send guests to an early, blissful sleep. It’s an adjustment to “Grafenast mountain time” – slower, kinder, more conscious. By the end of your stay, you not only feel rested, but a bit transformed. As one guest put it, “Grafenast isn’t just a hotel, it’s a way of life.” That way – caring for community, environment, and oneself in equal measure – lingers long after you descend back to the valley below.